New Mexico - Pie & Flash Floods

Cuba to the Gila National Forest 26th October 2025

It’s five in the morning and the alarm will go off in half an hour. 

Snug in my sleeping bag I’m looking up at Orion, Pleiades, Taurus and the 400 billion stars of our galaxy, the Milky Way, the 30 minutes of time, in this infinite universe some 13 billion years old, gives me time to think on the past days, the people, the land, my thoughts, feelings and the journey.


After nearly 3,000 miles and nearly 6 million steps each the journey is coming to an end and there are two feelings that Special Agent Sally (SAS) and I share.  One is of excitement and relief to be finished, free to return to our lives.  The other, one of great sadness and loss to say goodbye to one of our most gruelling, challenging and varied adventures to date.


Leaving the town of Cuba, we travelled through flash flooded desert, where rivers torrent milk chocolate and paths and roads turn to clay.  Slip or slide mud builds on your shoes and weighs heavily on your day.  This was the land of the Navajo, scenes of the Wild West all around as we crossed vast valleys from Mesa to Mesa and on.



Navajo country, Mesas and Valleys 





Thinking that we would be in desert for the remainder of our weeks here, we have been so surprised.  New Mexico most certainly is the Land of Enchantment - the flat plains of the desert have given way to even more mountain challenges, long days of just roads, Pie Town, Indian Reservations, and the hidden gem of the whole trip Gila National Forest.


Desert Sunset

A road in the mid morning

Trail angel Jenny places water
caches along the 85 miles of road


A road at dawn

Now, as I lay here - We’re cowboy camping.  Out in the open in our sleeping bags.  The tree above us drinking up the moisture in the air, keeping the dew at bay but allowing me to look westward whilst Sally sleeps.  I can hear the Gila (pronounced heela) in the distance, the only sound.


Yesterday, we followed and crossed the slow flowing river as it travelled downstream.  The water was warm in the afternoon sunshine as we enjoyed the beauty of the canyon and its autumn maple trees, losing count of the number of times we entered the water to follow the meander.


We took the whole afternoon slowly.  Everything has been at such a pace since June 15th it’s sometimes feels as if we haven’t been able to be in the moment.  Always planning the next day, the water carries, the resupply, the food, the mileage, the weather and the mini goals.


One such mini goal was Pie Town.  85 miles of road walking both tarmac and unsealed is tough.  You think it would be a lot easier than trails and mountains but it’s so much harder both mentally and physically.  The roads seem endless, boring and without the distraction of changing scenery.   The body suffers terribly too.  Without the dynamic of terrain change muscles and tendons are repeatedly used.  One hiker, No Seeum, suffered a stress fracture on this stretch and dropped out of the hike after over 2,500 miles and SAS almost died inhaling my Soy flavoured Top Ramen exhaust fumes as we walked single file.




Pie Town however was worth it.  A dust bowl, ramshackle Road Town.  It has two businesses, both of them pie shops. It also has a walk in donation based hostel, and a number of abandoned or near abandoned cabin type homes.  We arrived in Pie Town ten minutes before Pie Shop business #2 shut and we ate slice after slice of delicious fruit pie in that short window.  We also consoled Wrong Way who had spent the afternoon crying after completing the 85 mile road walk in one 24 hour session.


Sunshine Bandit outside Toaster House

Pop Up retires his trail shoes

After a night at the Toaster House we had more pie at Pie Business #1 before setting off onto more road that lead to what has been the most rewarding section of the CDT so far, The Gila National Forest.













With no roads, the sixth largest US National Forest, has been a most welcome break from ranch country.  It features Apache lands and cliff dwellings and the Garden of Eden like, Gila Wilderness.  Strange rock formations emerge in the canyons and mountains. 


Drinking cow pond water, camping in fields of cowpats is ok and is part of the journey but when you’re woken through the night by a bugling elk and not a lowing cow, it’s special.  It’s contrasts like this that has made this section so very special.


It’s so special that we would love to return, at this time of year and have, as Sally says, ‘A Wilderness Adventure’. Time at leisure to enjoy the nature with a few miles a day or maybe even none.  But I know that’s just exhaustion talking.  😉 


Our next stop, Silver City.  With just 160 miles to the border, I wonder if the CDT can hold anymore surprises.


Now though it’s time to stir the embers of the fire, add some wood and make Sally a coffee.


The next post should be a picture at the finish line in 6 days time.



Until then, see you on the trail.  


Jug 🩸


Tart cherry, pie number 3



Filtering cow water

The US has seen a 16% increase in beef prices
in the past year. 150,000 ranchers have collapsed.  
This solar pump is abandoned as drought grips.

Most days see over fifteen miles between 
water sources.  Can you spot the floating turd?


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